A Simple Way to Start A Compost Pile
A Simple Way to Start A Compost Pile
Everyone who asks me for gardening advice gets an earful about my compost pile. It’s the heart of the homestead, completing the circle of life for all the plants we tend. This post will help you understand a simple way to start a compost pile.
Composting is one of the simplest, most satisfying ways to turn kitchen and yard waste into nutrient-rich soil for your garden. It’s basically nature’s recycling bin. The best part? You don’t need fancy equipment, a chemistry degree, or a huge backyard to do it.
If you’re worried about weird smells, attracting critters, or ending up with a pile of half-rotted lettuce instead of beautiful, crumbly compost. I’ve been there! But I promise, once you get the basics down, composting is low-maintenance, rewarding, and even a little addictive. I’ll break it down step by step so you can get started with confidence.
If you want a garden that looks like this, you want to learn how to compost!
What You Need to Start a Compost Pile
A compost pile can be as straightforward or as fancy as you want. Some people invest in tumblers or enclosed bins, but the most efficient way is to start a pile right on the ground and let nature do its thing.
The reason the pile on the ground is most effective is because compost relies on microorganisms to break down. Those microorganisms are already living in the soil. If you have to use a tumbler or enclosed bin, you have to build your own community of microorganisms instead of just attracting them out of the ground.
It’s doable but takes longer, and a covered pile with less airflow is more likely to get smelly or slimy. If you have an HOA that requires it or some other reason for needing a bin, it’s far better to compost in a bin than to not compost at all!
Here’s what you need to start composting:
A designated spot – A corner of your yard or a bin. Compost doesn’t need light, so choose a shady spot on your property where plants won’t thrive anyway.
Organic materials – Kitchen scraps, yard waste, and other biodegradable goodies (we’ll get into specifics further down).
Airflow – Compost needs oxygen to break down properly, which means occasional turning. You don’t want to pile it up against a fence or a shed (this can actually cause a fire). Make sure it can get air on all sides.
Moisture – Not too wet, not too dry. Think of a damp sponge. You want your horse to be able to reach your compost.
Pitchfork - If you’re composting on the ground and not in a tumbling bin, you’ll need a pitchfork to turn it.
Compost Thermometer - Optional but excellent for knowing when it’s time to feed and turn your compost.
That’s it! You can probably get started without having to buy a dang thing.
What to Compost (And What NOT to Compost)
Now for the fun part: starting your compost pile! Deciding what goes in and what stays out is simple once you get the hang of it. Composting is all about balancing two main types of materials:
Greens (Nitrogen-rich materials)
These break down quickly and provide the moisture and nutrients microbes need to work their magic.
Fruit and vegetable scraps
Coffee grounds and tea leaves
Grass clippings
Eggshells (crushed for faster breakdown)
Manure from herbivores (like rabbits or chickens)
Browns (Carbon-rich materials)
These provide structure and balance, keeping your pile from turning into a slimy, smelly mess.
Dried leaves
Shredded newspaper or cardboard (but nothing with dyes)
Wood chips or sawdust (untreated and undyed)
Straw or hay
What NOT to Compost
Not everything belongs in your compost bin! Here are some things to avoid:
Meat, dairy, and oily foods (they attract pests)
Pet waste (can contain harmful bacteria)
Diseased plants (to prevent spreading)
Weeds that have gone to seed (unless you want them everywhere)
Anything with pesticides or chemicals
A good rule of thumb? If it came from a plant and isn’t covered in chemicals, it’s probably safe to compost.
Setting Up Your Pile or Bin
It’s time to build your pile! Here’s how to get started:
Choose a location – Pick a spot that’s easy to access but not too close to your house (there will be lots of lovely bugs we want to keep inside). Partial shade is best to prevent drying out.
Layer your materials – Start with a layer of coarse browns (like sticks or straw) for drainage, then alternate greens and browns.
Keep it moist – Saturate everything well while you layer. Then water your pile whenever you notice it getting inactive.
Take Its Temperature - Use your compost thermometer to test your pile. You want to keep it in the active zone. If you don’t have a compost thermometer, you’ll just stick your hand into the center of the pile. It should feel warm but not burning hot (it can get burning hot, so be careful if you are putting your hand in there).
Turn it regularly – Every time the temperature of your compost drops into the inactive zone or feels cold, it’s time to turn it. Give your pile a good mix with a shovel or pitchfork to aerate it and speed up decomposition.
If you’re using a bin or tumbler, follow the same principles—just make sure air and moisture can circulate.
Common Composting Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
A healthy compost pile doesn’t stink or attract pests. If you're experiencing these challenges, here’s what might be going wrong:
Too wet? Add more browns (shredded paper, dry leaves) and turn the pile to introduce air.
Too dry? Get out the hose and thoroughly saturate the pile.
Smells bad? You might have too many greens—balance it out with more browns.
Not breaking down? Chop materials smaller, turn more often, and check moisture levels.
Attracting Pests? You’re leaving your table scraps too accessible. Make sure you put them in the center of the pile and cover them well with browns. You can also put hardware cloth fencing around your pile if needed.
How Long Until You Get Compost?
With a little attention, your compost will turn into rich, dark soil in a few months to a year, depending on conditions. In Zone 9b, with my big pile, I can have fresh soil in about 90 days.
What determines the speed of your compost:
Size of materials – Smaller pieces break down faster.
Temperature – Warmer conditions speed things up.
Amount of compost - A larger pile has more microorganisms working to decompose the materials and will create soil faster.
Moisture levels – Keep it damp but not soggy. A dry pile goes completely inactive. A soggy pile rots instead of breaking down into soil.
Aeration – Turning your pile helps speed decomposition. Without air, the microorganisms die off, and breakdown takes longer.
Can your compost get too hot? Yes, if it gets too hot (Over 160 degrees), it will actually start to burn, and the living microorganisms and bugs will die off. If this happens you will notice an ashy appearance to your compost when you turn the pile.
Spread it out and leave it be without adding to it for a while if this happens. It will cool off, and you can resume. Just don’t feed it quite so much at once going forward.
When your compost is dark, crumbly, and smells like fresh earth, it’s ready to use in your garden!
How to Use Your Compost
I use this homemade compost sifter to separate the broken-down black gold from particles that still need some time in the pile. I balance the sifter on the wheelbarrow, shovel some on, and shake it back and forth until it’s fully sifted. The chickens know this process means grubs for them. They stand behind me and cheer me on. It’s a fantastic workout.
It’s on my list to build a multi-bay containment system for my pile, like Deanna’s at Homestead and Chill. This way, I can separate completed compost from materials that still need some cook time at a more leisurely pace. Right now, with just one pile, it’s quite the job because it has to be done all at once.
Anyways once I have a wheelbarrow full of compost, I wheel it off to my garden beds and top them off. This is the primary method I use for creating soil for my garden and the reason I don’t have to buy bagged soil!
You can watch this process here.
How to Compost in an Apartment
If you live in an apartment, don’t count yourself out! You won’t be able to make wheelbarrow loads of compost but you probably don’t need that much soil with your limited space either.
When I lived in a 600 sq foot apartment in Idaho, I kept a worm bin on my porch (and i my bedroom closet in the winter). I was able to amend my pots and keep a happy little porch garden going for the 4 years we lived there.
There was one winter when we got a fruit fly infestation in our closet… but everyone survived, and we learned not to overfeed it after that! Homestead and Chill has great instructions on how to start a worm bin if you want to do that.
A Witch’s Love for Her Compost
Starting a compost pile is one of the easiest and most rewarding ways to reduce waste and improve your garden’s soil. It may take a little time to get the hang of things, but don’t stress—nature knows what it’s doing! Even if your pile isn’t perfect, you’re still making a positive impact on the environment.
Sustainably disposing of the majority of our kitchen waste at home is deeply satisfying - knowing we aren’t contributing to methane emissions and overfilling landfills. Then, when you add in the fact that we aren’t buying bagged soils, my compost pile is one of the most sustainable things I do for the environment and my wallet.
Working with my compost brings me a lot of peace. I always sort my thoughts out with my hands in the dirt. Pouring love back into the land that nourishes my family balances the energies on the homestead.
I’m so excited that you want to join in this practice too! Just start where you are with what you have. Your plants (and the planet) will thank you!
Happy composting! 😊
